Denim Mag

DIESEL BLACK GOLD: Surreal Tailors

The Diesel Black Gold SS ‘11 men’s collection subverts the codes of tailoring to create a surreal, inventive stylishness

A bespoke suit is at its most intriguing when it’s still under construction. At the first fitting, the tailor’s chalk lines and stitches are still visible. The artefact is not yet complete – it’s halfway between dream and reality. Diesel Black Gold’s SS ‘11 men’s collection evokes and enhances this mysterious moment. The garments look unfinished, as if ready to adapt to their owners. Hardware provides a flash of rebellion; colour a dash of style. The result is surreal and unexpectedly rock and roll – call it tailor-made punk. The look sums up the Diesel Black Gold man: creative, intelligent, unorthodox and casually charming.

The garments are challenging yet classic – an entertaining clash of styles. Key items include a super light & shiny nylon trench with a layered unfinished lapel, an under- construction jacket with metallic details; and even a knitted dinner jacket. Slim jersey and leather pants with cuts are matched with reversible waistcoats unveiling the in-progress side of garments.

The collection’s themes reflect a preoccupation with the tailor’s art. Numbers, recalling tape measures, are printed on the lining of jackets and on T-shirts and shirts. Images of tape measures also appear on the collars of jackets and the sides of pants. The architectural lines of paper patterns inspire curious cuts. Geometrical shapes are printed on T-shirts and blazers while visible stitching often appears on garments in an echo of basting.

The Diesel Black Gold approach to denim is in constant evolution developing a wide range of exclusive treatments and washes on both slim fit and regular fit with tapered low crotch. Dark vintage blue shades come to life through 3D whiskers while stone washing, manual abrasions, darning and patches appear on bleached cloth expressing the real Diesel DNA. Coloured denim pants, fully hand-crafted in Okayama (Japan) with a traditional process, express the real vintage look.

Bespoke tailoring is part of the history of men’s clothing, timeless and beyond fashion. Here it is brought into a new era with an iconoclastic yet respectful collection that wittily redefines notions of male elegance.

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